Welcome to our recommendations 50 great things to do in Donegal. These are all tried and tested by us, by our guests, students, families- almost all of these ideas are free, and where there's a charge, we think it's worth every penny. Expect a mix of suggestions- some are historical places, some are fun things to do, some are ideas for walkers, hikers, there's a dog in here, most are family friendly, and we have a soft spot for gardens and flowers. As we are based in Bundoran, in the south of Donegal, we also cross the borders occasionally to our stunning neighbouring counties of Leitrim, Sligo and Fermanagh, but we go west, north, east and central, all around Donegal too. We have put in suggestions for your visits, and some lovely foodie places too, - this is no judgement of places we don't mention, but we did try to go off the beaten track a little bit, keep it affordable and exciting, and give a mention to the people we return to again and again, because of their great service and support with our guests. We hope you find these useful ideas to plan a visit to Donegal, and feel free to email us [email protected] if we can be of any help. Thanks to everyone mentioned, and to artist Kevin Lowery for the fabulous map!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 1 Fort Dunree
Day 1- we are exploring Dunree Fort. Fort Dunree, 'Dun Fhraoigh, in Irish means “Fort of the Heather”, and it is on the tip of a peninsula in Northern Donegal that juts out into Lough Swilly and the Atlantic. This has always been an important strategic site, so Irish chieftains, Vikings, and both the British and Irish armies used this location as a defence post. I was fascinated by the old complex of derelict barrack buildings. They are constructed using corrugated-metal sheeting, built to house gunners by the British military c. 1895 – 97. The base remained in British military hands until 1938, and then was garrisoned by the Irish Army during WW2 when a number of anti-aircraft guns were added. There is a great museum here, (7e) but it's free to walk around the hill, and although it's a shame these old buildings are not being preserved, there is something beautiful in their shabby, rusted forms. Perhaps it's like the old border posts- it's good to know those days of military occupation are gone for good. The views are absolutely spectacular, and it's a really engaging and interesting place to see. Enjoy!
Day 1- we are exploring Dunree Fort. Fort Dunree, 'Dun Fhraoigh, in Irish means “Fort of the Heather”, and it is on the tip of a peninsula in Northern Donegal that juts out into Lough Swilly and the Atlantic. This has always been an important strategic site, so Irish chieftains, Vikings, and both the British and Irish armies used this location as a defence post. I was fascinated by the old complex of derelict barrack buildings. They are constructed using corrugated-metal sheeting, built to house gunners by the British military c. 1895 – 97. The base remained in British military hands until 1938, and then was garrisoned by the Irish Army during WW2 when a number of anti-aircraft guns were added. There is a great museum here, (7e) but it's free to walk around the hill, and although it's a shame these old buildings are not being preserved, there is something beautiful in their shabby, rusted forms. Perhaps it's like the old border posts- it's good to know those days of military occupation are gone for good. The views are absolutely spectacular, and it's a really engaging and interesting place to see. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 2 Shellshocked
Today, our guide is Robinson, who loves nothing more than shell-hunting on the beach. Did you know that County Donegal has over 700 miles of coastline? That's over 17% of the entire coastline of Ireland, and here's the thing - the beaches here are absolutely stunning, there are loads and loads of them, and you will find your own empty cove without difficulty. The sand here varies between powder-white to golden, and it's a shell paradise. Kids love shell-spotting, and you'll find mussels, cockles, razor shells, periwinkles, scallops, limpets, wedges and barnacles - tell the kids that the limpets unstick themselves when they go for a wee swim, and then they go home to the exact same spot - they'll be fascinated. Rescue any stranded live shells and put them back in the water, then go for a paddle or a swim in the cleanest greenest water you'll find in Ireland. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 3 SS Laurentic
Most of us know the story of the Titanic, but Donegal has another story of a shipping tragedy - and a beautiful memorial to visit, overlooking the scene of the disaster. Like the Titanic, the Laurentic was built in Ireland, to carry passengers between Liverpool and Quebec. Like many other boats, it was employed as an armed merchant cruiser during WW1, and on Jan 25 1917, she left from the UK bound for Canada. However, four men became ill, so the ship made a stop in Donegal to drop them off. As the Laurentic departed from Donegal, she struck two mines, and began to sink. Although the crew managed to launch the lifeboats, the weather was bitterly cold, and many men died of hypothermia. Despite rescue efforts by locals, 354 men perished in the tragedy, 121 men survived. The Laurentic Monument overlooks the watery grave of many of those men, and prompts us to remember those who lost their lives and also those who survived the ordeal. The sculpture was designed by Mark Hill and Mandy Blinco, and erected here in 2019 by The Ulster Canada Initiative. It has the frame of an Irish fishing boat on top of a mast, with a compass beneath it. From the sculpture there is a direct view across the bay where the Laurentic lies on the sea bed. At the base of the mast is a circular stone wall with the names of each of the men who lost their lives. In the centre is a ceramic piece, referencing the position of the planets and the stars at the moment the ship went down. It's a really beautiful memorial, strange, evocative, and sympathetic to this extraordinary landscape. Enjoy!
Most of us know the story of the Titanic, but Donegal has another story of a shipping tragedy - and a beautiful memorial to visit, overlooking the scene of the disaster. Like the Titanic, the Laurentic was built in Ireland, to carry passengers between Liverpool and Quebec. Like many other boats, it was employed as an armed merchant cruiser during WW1, and on Jan 25 1917, she left from the UK bound for Canada. However, four men became ill, so the ship made a stop in Donegal to drop them off. As the Laurentic departed from Donegal, she struck two mines, and began to sink. Although the crew managed to launch the lifeboats, the weather was bitterly cold, and many men died of hypothermia. Despite rescue efforts by locals, 354 men perished in the tragedy, 121 men survived. The Laurentic Monument overlooks the watery grave of many of those men, and prompts us to remember those who lost their lives and also those who survived the ordeal. The sculpture was designed by Mark Hill and Mandy Blinco, and erected here in 2019 by The Ulster Canada Initiative. It has the frame of an Irish fishing boat on top of a mast, with a compass beneath it. From the sculpture there is a direct view across the bay where the Laurentic lies on the sea bed. At the base of the mast is a circular stone wall with the names of each of the men who lost their lives. In the centre is a ceramic piece, referencing the position of the planets and the stars at the moment the ship went down. It's a really beautiful memorial, strange, evocative, and sympathetic to this extraordinary landscape. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 4 Thrift Store
Ok- this is not what you think it is! Myself and Robinson are taking you back to the coast, this time to wallow in the joy of Sea Thrift, the small papery pink flower that is absolutely thriving at this time of year. Sea Thrift (also called Sea Pink, Cliff Rose, Lady’s Cushion, & Marsh Daisy) is delightful- on a mad coastline that can rip away the hardiest of sturdy plants, this pretty little lady dances in the face of the wind and rain, and dangles precariously over every edge, giving the cliff faces their own confetti shower. There are a few other wildflowers adding to the color palette - Robinson heard that the yellow and red birdsfoot vetch was also known as 'eggs-and-bacon' so that obviously appeals- and there are some wild violets and zig-zag clovers. There are miles and miles of cliff walks all around Donegal, and especially at this time of year, it is sheer joy to witness the tenacity and girl power of the tiny thrift! Fun fact- The British three penny coin (threepenny bit) had the thrift flower on it between 1937 and 1953 – presumably to encourage people to be thrifty during and after the war years. Enjoy.
Ok- this is not what you think it is! Myself and Robinson are taking you back to the coast, this time to wallow in the joy of Sea Thrift, the small papery pink flower that is absolutely thriving at this time of year. Sea Thrift (also called Sea Pink, Cliff Rose, Lady’s Cushion, & Marsh Daisy) is delightful- on a mad coastline that can rip away the hardiest of sturdy plants, this pretty little lady dances in the face of the wind and rain, and dangles precariously over every edge, giving the cliff faces their own confetti shower. There are a few other wildflowers adding to the color palette - Robinson heard that the yellow and red birdsfoot vetch was also known as 'eggs-and-bacon' so that obviously appeals- and there are some wild violets and zig-zag clovers. There are miles and miles of cliff walks all around Donegal, and especially at this time of year, it is sheer joy to witness the tenacity and girl power of the tiny thrift! Fun fact- The British three penny coin (threepenny bit) had the thrift flower on it between 1937 and 1953 – presumably to encourage people to be thrifty during and after the war years. Enjoy.
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 5 Loughanure
One of our favourite parts of Donegal is an area known as 'The Rosses' or in Irish, 'Na Rossan'. Much of this area is Gaelic-speaking, and there is an incredible wealth of Irish lore and culture in these parts, if you venture this far. I'll begin in the tiny little village of Loughanure, or in Irish, Lough an Iuir. It is, as you would expect, on the edge of a beautiful lake, and walks in any direction will take you to gorgeousness. I just took a ramble down to the jetty, but tomorrow we will follow another road up to Bunawack and Thorr.
But- one great reason to go to Loughanure, apart from its prettiness, and its Irish speaking, is 'Casadh an tSugáin', a traditional Irish pub and restaurant that is well known locally for its warm welcome and delicious food. We've been there many times, it's our treat to ourselves after a brisk walk around the lake, and we can recommend it. You'll enjoy the Irish writer quotes that decorate the walls inside, and if you want to know what fresh, home-grown Irish food tastes like, this should be on your list. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 6 Bunawack
This is one of our favourite rambles, and its close by yesterday's walk around Loughanure. But it's on the opposite side of the lake, and to the right of it is a beautifully boggy, stone sprinkled wilderness called 'Thorr'. You can follow the road, which is so rarely used that flowers grow along the centre, from the lakeside up to the top of the hill, where you'll find the old Thorr National School, which opened in 1924, but is now derelict. At this point you are looking across at the offshore islands to the right, and to your left you have miles of some of the most remote parts of Donegal - it is a tough landscape, and you can tell, by the abandoned cottages and old famine paths and walls that it was a hard life in these parts. But if you love an easy walk in an uninhabited landscape, you will love this. Enjoy!
This is one of our favourite rambles, and its close by yesterday's walk around Loughanure. But it's on the opposite side of the lake, and to the right of it is a beautifully boggy, stone sprinkled wilderness called 'Thorr'. You can follow the road, which is so rarely used that flowers grow along the centre, from the lakeside up to the top of the hill, where you'll find the old Thorr National School, which opened in 1924, but is now derelict. At this point you are looking across at the offshore islands to the right, and to your left you have miles of some of the most remote parts of Donegal - it is a tough landscape, and you can tell, by the abandoned cottages and old famine paths and walls that it was a hard life in these parts. But if you love an easy walk in an uninhabited landscape, you will love this. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 7 Border Run
Happy Friday everyone! We are doing a sneaky border run today, about 5 miles from Bundoran, as the sun is shining on Ben Wisken Mountain, the hawthorn is blooming, and with apologies to the good folk of counties Leitrim and Sligo, we here in South Donegal absolutely love being in the shadow of the Dartry Mountains, and will include them here in our rambles, even if we do cross the county line. Bundoran (where we are based) is luckily positioned close to not only lovely Leitrim and Sexy Sligo, but also Fab Fermanagh, and visitors here can choose from lakelands, forests, mountain hikes, coastal walks, beaches, cliffs and islands, all within a radius of 20 miles. I know! Blessed! When are you coming?
Happy Friday everyone! We are doing a sneaky border run today, about 5 miles from Bundoran, as the sun is shining on Ben Wisken Mountain, the hawthorn is blooming, and with apologies to the good folk of counties Leitrim and Sligo, we here in South Donegal absolutely love being in the shadow of the Dartry Mountains, and will include them here in our rambles, even if we do cross the county line. Bundoran (where we are based) is luckily positioned close to not only lovely Leitrim and Sexy Sligo, but also Fab Fermanagh, and visitors here can choose from lakelands, forests, mountain hikes, coastal walks, beaches, cliffs and islands, all within a radius of 20 miles. I know! Blessed! When are you coming?
50 Top things to do in Donegal- Trip 8 Climb Errigal Mountain
Errigal Mountain is one of the iconic landmarks of Donegal. It is majestic in its cone-shaped authority, especially when viewed from Gweedore and the Rosses, as the mountain rises up above the lakes and the glens. However, its back side, if you will, looks very different- it is a boggy bank of hill that has a path that winds up about two thirds of the way, and it is a relatively easy climb (as long as it's not too soggy). The final third of the path is very stony and steep at times, but on a good day, it's really accessible for most people, and the views from the top are absolutely stunning. To prove the accessibility, myself and my pal Louise did it one sunny day, and who was coming down the mountain as we ascended - an 80 year old man, named Tadhg, who decided he would come and meet us. Yes folks- I met my dear old DAD on his way down. He hadn't the patience to wait for us! A bonus of an Errigal visit, even if you don't do the climb, are the views into the Poisoned Glen and the old Dunlewey church. There are some lovely places along here for picnics and coffees, you definitely could make a day of it. Of course, we absolutely recommend you choose a clear, calm day and observe all the usual rules if you do climb, -proper footwear, etc. - on a nice day, there will be a lot of people on the route, and you'll see the pathways up and down. Save your sandwich for the very top, it'll be the most scenic location you've ever snacked in!
Errigal Mountain is one of the iconic landmarks of Donegal. It is majestic in its cone-shaped authority, especially when viewed from Gweedore and the Rosses, as the mountain rises up above the lakes and the glens. However, its back side, if you will, looks very different- it is a boggy bank of hill that has a path that winds up about two thirds of the way, and it is a relatively easy climb (as long as it's not too soggy). The final third of the path is very stony and steep at times, but on a good day, it's really accessible for most people, and the views from the top are absolutely stunning. To prove the accessibility, myself and my pal Louise did it one sunny day, and who was coming down the mountain as we ascended - an 80 year old man, named Tadhg, who decided he would come and meet us. Yes folks- I met my dear old DAD on his way down. He hadn't the patience to wait for us! A bonus of an Errigal visit, even if you don't do the climb, are the views into the Poisoned Glen and the old Dunlewey church. There are some lovely places along here for picnics and coffees, you definitely could make a day of it. Of course, we absolutely recommend you choose a clear, calm day and observe all the usual rules if you do climb, -proper footwear, etc. - on a nice day, there will be a lot of people on the route, and you'll see the pathways up and down. Save your sandwich for the very top, it'll be the most scenic location you've ever snacked in!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 9 Visit Silver Strand
Each season, hundreds of people rightly visit the Sliabh Liag cliffs, but unknown to most, there is a quite amazing cove at the other side of the cliffs, known as Silver Strand. The road literally stops here- you can go no further than the beach car park, and you appear to be looking at a fence along a cliff- but you look over, and see an incredibly steep set of steps descending down to a perfect beach - it has golden sand, sea arches, crazy rock formations, a Napoleonic tower, and rarely more than a handful of people on a sunny day, and probably just the sheep the rest of the time. Mercifully, the good people of Malin beg have put some benches at strategic breathing points on the steps, but it really is a perfect spot for a picnic if your idea of heaven is a beautiful empty beach. On your way home, stop off at the wonderful Glen Folk Village for the best home-made bread and soup in the world - and have a bit of craic with the wonderful women in the shop. A perfect day.
Each season, hundreds of people rightly visit the Sliabh Liag cliffs, but unknown to most, there is a quite amazing cove at the other side of the cliffs, known as Silver Strand. The road literally stops here- you can go no further than the beach car park, and you appear to be looking at a fence along a cliff- but you look over, and see an incredibly steep set of steps descending down to a perfect beach - it has golden sand, sea arches, crazy rock formations, a Napoleonic tower, and rarely more than a handful of people on a sunny day, and probably just the sheep the rest of the time. Mercifully, the good people of Malin beg have put some benches at strategic breathing points on the steps, but it really is a perfect spot for a picnic if your idea of heaven is a beautiful empty beach. On your way home, stop off at the wonderful Glen Folk Village for the best home-made bread and soup in the world - and have a bit of craic with the wonderful women in the shop. A perfect day.
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 10 Beginner Surf Lesson
Here's the beauty of the beginner surf lesson- anyone, absolutely anyone can give it a go. Bundoran is blessed with many ideal beaches for beginner surfing, and there are a number of great schools, with qualified instructors who know what they are doing. We've loved, over the years, coaxing people into wetsuits and into the water, and especially people who never thought they would surf in the Atlantic - our oldest surfer was the grand old age of 80 years, and to this day, not one single person has come back from a surf lesson, and said they didn't enjoy it immensely. The surf schools are open all year round, they give you all you need to stay warm and safe- it's an absolute adrenaline rush, and you have the added bonus of beautiful clean green waves, and views back to shore, and on to the mountains that are glorious. This isn't a free activity - you'll pay between $30 and $40 for a session- but that includes all your gear, board, instructors and lifeguards, and there is nothing as satisfying as that cool beer/ hot coffee that you enjoy later, reflecting on that one perfect wave....
Here's the beauty of the beginner surf lesson- anyone, absolutely anyone can give it a go. Bundoran is blessed with many ideal beaches for beginner surfing, and there are a number of great schools, with qualified instructors who know what they are doing. We've loved, over the years, coaxing people into wetsuits and into the water, and especially people who never thought they would surf in the Atlantic - our oldest surfer was the grand old age of 80 years, and to this day, not one single person has come back from a surf lesson, and said they didn't enjoy it immensely. The surf schools are open all year round, they give you all you need to stay warm and safe- it's an absolute adrenaline rush, and you have the added bonus of beautiful clean green waves, and views back to shore, and on to the mountains that are glorious. This isn't a free activity - you'll pay between $30 and $40 for a session- but that includes all your gear, board, instructors and lifeguards, and there is nothing as satisfying as that cool beer/ hot coffee that you enjoy later, reflecting on that one perfect wave....
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 11 Visit Rory.
We are big fans of sculpture here at FMI, from neolithic monuments to early Christian crosses, to modern art works, but the energy of the life-size bronze of Irish musician Rory Gallagher, by David Annand is absolutely worth a visit. Rory was born in Ballyshannon, and stands proudly in prime position, impossible to miss. While many statues try and fail to capture their subject, we think this statue is absolutely wonderful - the pose, the hair, the hands, the guitar- you'll often see fans posing for photos, and it's also a lovely contrast to many of the other historical elements of Ballyshannon, claimed by residents to be Ireland's oldest town. If that's not enough Rory for you, then go a step further, and come to the Rory Gallagher International festival, in June each year. This is the most chilled, fun, friendly music festival in the world, with a mix of dedicated fans from all over the globe, new generation fans, and the irrepressible locals, who love the craic and make you so welcome. My final photo of this set was taken on Saturday, in a shop in Ballyshannon- it just cracked me up. That's the kind of place it is. Brilliant.
We are big fans of sculpture here at FMI, from neolithic monuments to early Christian crosses, to modern art works, but the energy of the life-size bronze of Irish musician Rory Gallagher, by David Annand is absolutely worth a visit. Rory was born in Ballyshannon, and stands proudly in prime position, impossible to miss. While many statues try and fail to capture their subject, we think this statue is absolutely wonderful - the pose, the hair, the hands, the guitar- you'll often see fans posing for photos, and it's also a lovely contrast to many of the other historical elements of Ballyshannon, claimed by residents to be Ireland's oldest town. If that's not enough Rory for you, then go a step further, and come to the Rory Gallagher International festival, in June each year. This is the most chilled, fun, friendly music festival in the world, with a mix of dedicated fans from all over the globe, new generation fans, and the irrepressible locals, who love the craic and make you so welcome. My final photo of this set was taken on Saturday, in a shop in Ballyshannon- it just cracked me up. That's the kind of place it is. Brilliant.
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 12 The Islands- Part 1 Tory Island
There are about 80 islands off the coast of Ireland, few of them are inhabited, but Donegal has several that are well worth visiting. The islands have a chequered history; it is easy to romanticize island life when you visit on a sunny day in summer, but tough lives were lived here, and it's worth prodding beneath the surface of their summer tourist appeal, because you can learn much about resilience, folklore, music, storytelling, seafaring, Irish language, and emigration from the Islanders' experience.
We'll begin with Tory Island, which is accessible by ferry, a few times a day. It takes about 45 minutes to reach the beautiful harbour, in the shadow of the medieval Tau Cross. Tory, like most of the inhabited islands, is a Gaelic-speaking island, but the locals are bilingual and utterly hospitable. All of the inhabited islands rely on tourism as a source of income, and so you have that odd situation where people come to walk and gawk and marvel at the quaintness, often oblivious to the difficulties of making island life work all year round. So our first bit of advice is - as much as possible, support the business there. Buy food, buy gifts, it's a very fair swap for the effort people make to keep these remote places alive and thriving.
Tory island is absolutely saturated in folklore and mythology - the Giant Balor was said to have lived there, Cúchulainn spear caused a great crater, Cromwell's sword is supposed to have scarred the Tau cross- and there are a thousand stories of island storms, fishing tragedies, beachcombing windfalls, Atlantic War stories- I would highly advise reading as much about the island before you go, and after you explore all around it, go and have a pint with a local, and ask them to tell you more stories. Tory's scenery is almost beyond description, - make time to walk from Balor's cave right down to the lighthouse, - then go for the chats. It's awesome. Enjoy.
There are about 80 islands off the coast of Ireland, few of them are inhabited, but Donegal has several that are well worth visiting. The islands have a chequered history; it is easy to romanticize island life when you visit on a sunny day in summer, but tough lives were lived here, and it's worth prodding beneath the surface of their summer tourist appeal, because you can learn much about resilience, folklore, music, storytelling, seafaring, Irish language, and emigration from the Islanders' experience.
We'll begin with Tory Island, which is accessible by ferry, a few times a day. It takes about 45 minutes to reach the beautiful harbour, in the shadow of the medieval Tau Cross. Tory, like most of the inhabited islands, is a Gaelic-speaking island, but the locals are bilingual and utterly hospitable. All of the inhabited islands rely on tourism as a source of income, and so you have that odd situation where people come to walk and gawk and marvel at the quaintness, often oblivious to the difficulties of making island life work all year round. So our first bit of advice is - as much as possible, support the business there. Buy food, buy gifts, it's a very fair swap for the effort people make to keep these remote places alive and thriving.
Tory island is absolutely saturated in folklore and mythology - the Giant Balor was said to have lived there, Cúchulainn spear caused a great crater, Cromwell's sword is supposed to have scarred the Tau cross- and there are a thousand stories of island storms, fishing tragedies, beachcombing windfalls, Atlantic War stories- I would highly advise reading as much about the island before you go, and after you explore all around it, go and have a pint with a local, and ask them to tell you more stories. Tory's scenery is almost beyond description, - make time to walk from Balor's cave right down to the lighthouse, - then go for the chats. It's awesome. Enjoy.
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 13 Tower loop walk at Glencolmcille
Glencolmcille is probably already on your to-do list if you are coming to Donegal, but it's got so much going on that you definitely need to make at least a full day of it. We'll talk about the Folk Village, Colmcille and Irish Language options in another post, but today, we simply take you with us on the tower loop walk, a well-marked trail that takes you up above the Glen to an old Napoleonic Tower, and incredible views of the coastline with its sea stacks and islands and caves. It's a well-marked trail, and not too far before the rewards are truly stunning; the old tower is a lovely place for a picnic, and then continue down to admire the majestical Sturrell Head. It is a windy walk through - even though we had blue skies and June sunshine, there's a quare breeze whipping in, hold onto your hat! Enjoy
Glencolmcille is probably already on your to-do list if you are coming to Donegal, but it's got so much going on that you definitely need to make at least a full day of it. We'll talk about the Folk Village, Colmcille and Irish Language options in another post, but today, we simply take you with us on the tower loop walk, a well-marked trail that takes you up above the Glen to an old Napoleonic Tower, and incredible views of the coastline with its sea stacks and islands and caves. It's a well-marked trail, and not too far before the rewards are truly stunning; the old tower is a lovely place for a picnic, and then continue down to admire the majestical Sturrell Head. It is a windy walk through - even though we had blue skies and June sunshine, there's a quare breeze whipping in, hold onto your hat! Enjoy
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 14 - Get Stoned
Today is June 21, 2021, the longest day of the year and the Summer Solstice. Sunrise this morning here in Bundoran was at 4:57am and the sun will set at 10:22pm, and myself and Robinson are determined to make the most of it. We were up very early to catch those special solstice rays, remembering how very important these dates were to the ancient people, and how they constructed alignments of stone, so they could measure the longest and shortest days of the year. It mattered enormously to them to know that the seasons were behaving themselves, and that their timing for planting and harvesting their food was correct. Stone circles and monuments were often sites of ritual and burial but they also served as giant sundials, and so today, we wanted to go visit some old stones.
As we wanted to catch the dawn, and we didn't want to go too far (or share our morning with anyone else), we parked the car at The Traveller's Rest pub (Whoriskeys) in Cashelard, and walked about 2km down the loveliest windy road, to the remnants of an old stone circle. Just three standing stones remain, -it's no Newgrange, that's for sure, but the sun rose into a perfect blue sky, and threw its rays down, and I was perfectly able to imagine a complete stone circle and the thrill of witnessing this celestial fortune-telling, thousands of years ago. Robinson also obliged by demonstrating the long shadows of a rising sun - small puppy is transformed into giant dog-monster. You can also see him happily hunting flowers to eat- he is particularly fond of the purple 'catchflies' flowers, and the oxeye daisies that are magnificent at the moment.
We were too early for the pub on the way back, but it's a gorgeous stop-off for a beer if you do this walk at a respectable hour. Happy Solstice everyone!
Today is June 21, 2021, the longest day of the year and the Summer Solstice. Sunrise this morning here in Bundoran was at 4:57am and the sun will set at 10:22pm, and myself and Robinson are determined to make the most of it. We were up very early to catch those special solstice rays, remembering how very important these dates were to the ancient people, and how they constructed alignments of stone, so they could measure the longest and shortest days of the year. It mattered enormously to them to know that the seasons were behaving themselves, and that their timing for planting and harvesting their food was correct. Stone circles and monuments were often sites of ritual and burial but they also served as giant sundials, and so today, we wanted to go visit some old stones.
As we wanted to catch the dawn, and we didn't want to go too far (or share our morning with anyone else), we parked the car at The Traveller's Rest pub (Whoriskeys) in Cashelard, and walked about 2km down the loveliest windy road, to the remnants of an old stone circle. Just three standing stones remain, -it's no Newgrange, that's for sure, but the sun rose into a perfect blue sky, and threw its rays down, and I was perfectly able to imagine a complete stone circle and the thrill of witnessing this celestial fortune-telling, thousands of years ago. Robinson also obliged by demonstrating the long shadows of a rising sun - small puppy is transformed into giant dog-monster. You can also see him happily hunting flowers to eat- he is particularly fond of the purple 'catchflies' flowers, and the oxeye daisies that are magnificent at the moment.
We were too early for the pub on the way back, but it's a gorgeous stop-off for a beer if you do this walk at a respectable hour. Happy Solstice everyone!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 15 Climb a Mountain and Jump in a Lake!
Legendary balladeer Christy Moore tells us that 'Everybody needs a break/ Climb a mountain, jump in a lake' and he's dead right. So for day 15, we are suggesting you do both. Arroo is the name of the mountain that overlooks Bundoran, and there is a wonderful trail that will take you up to its broad flank. If you stick to the trail, the going is easy, but if you choose a fine summer's day, and the beaches are packed, it is so worthwhile packing swimsuits and a picnic, and going the extra distance to find the most scenic swim in the world! As you come towards the end of the trail, you have a climb ahead of you- it's up the side of the mountain, -its fine and fun on a good dry day - and the reward at the top are incredible views of Leitrim and Donegal, and the lake... complete with sandy shore and perfect lunch spot. Car parking is available at the base of the trail, which is well marked, but please check the weather, you want the views and a reasonably dry climb for this. It's not for little people, as you are right up on the edge of the mountain, and you have to be smart about how you tread, but if you love a good hike and the best natural infinity pool in the Northwest, give this a go!
Legendary balladeer Christy Moore tells us that 'Everybody needs a break/ Climb a mountain, jump in a lake' and he's dead right. So for day 15, we are suggesting you do both. Arroo is the name of the mountain that overlooks Bundoran, and there is a wonderful trail that will take you up to its broad flank. If you stick to the trail, the going is easy, but if you choose a fine summer's day, and the beaches are packed, it is so worthwhile packing swimsuits and a picnic, and going the extra distance to find the most scenic swim in the world! As you come towards the end of the trail, you have a climb ahead of you- it's up the side of the mountain, -its fine and fun on a good dry day - and the reward at the top are incredible views of Leitrim and Donegal, and the lake... complete with sandy shore and perfect lunch spot. Car parking is available at the base of the trail, which is well marked, but please check the weather, you want the views and a reasonably dry climb for this. It's not for little people, as you are right up on the edge of the mountain, and you have to be smart about how you tread, but if you love a good hike and the best natural infinity pool in the Northwest, give this a go!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 16 St. John's Point
June 23 is St. John's Eve, and in honour of that, our visit is to St. John's Point, a peninsula jutting out into McSweeney's Bay, between Bundoran and Killybegs. Before we tell you what to explore, a few words about St. John's Eve. This date corresponds with the summer solstice, and so, despite the Christian implications, there's a lot of pre-Christian rituals associated with the day- bonfires, in particular, and you'll still witness this in parts of Ireland. The customs are all associated with strength, fertility and the return of a good harvest, I particularly like the one where young couples jump through the bonfire flames to guarantee plenty of children in the future... (yikes!) You might also ponder on the smart early Christians who matched one of the largest universal rituals (winter solstice) with the birth of Jesus, and the next biggest event, summer solstice, with John the Baptist... coincidence?
Anyhow, it doesn't have to be St. John's Eve to visit St. John's Point, it just reminded us that it's well worth a visit. It's about thirty minutes from us here, and a short distance into the peninsula, you'll see an old castle ruin against the backdrop of the Atlantic. This is MacSwyne (or Mac Sweeney) castle, - not too much left of it, but still a reminder of a powerful clan. The MacSweeneys were Scottish mercenaries to support the Donegal O'Donnells, and then stayed around to become a formidable clan. There are other castles associated with this family that are in better shape, and we'll get to that, but there is something about this crumbling old ruin, out on the edge of the sea, that inspires the imagination. You can drive further out on the point, and when you run out of road, park up, and walk towards the lighthouse. Your views are breath-taking- to your left you will have the Dartry Mountains sweeping down along south Donegal, Leitrim and Sligo, and to your right you have the Sliabh Liag Cliffs- and straight ahead is the Atlantic, with its big sky, and the sun playing peek-a-boo through the enthusiastic clouds. It's a lovely easy walk up to the lighthouse, and if you walk just past it, you will see the huge letters of EIRE laid out in white stone on the ground. This giant word, EIRE is the Irish word for Ireland, and these markers were laid out in WWII so that airmen flying from Allied air bases in Enniskillen would know where they were when they came in from manoeuvres in the Atlantic. Ireland was allegedly 'neutral' during WWII, (except it totally wasn't) and there was a corridor of airspace over Donegal that facilitated the Allies' shorter flight path out west. The entire coastline was marked and there are many places this big scrabble-sign is visible, with the number 70, (there are 83 points altogether). This particular EIRE is restored and well kept, it's a good one to show the kids. It's also a good segue to the crazy stories of the Wild Atlantic Way- from Vikings to Medieval Pirates to lighthouse lights being extinguished to thwart island landlords- and if you're not in story-telling mood, the relentless ebb and flow of the ocean out here will sooth all souls. In any weather, this is a lovely, easy, interesting trip. Enjoy!
June 23 is St. John's Eve, and in honour of that, our visit is to St. John's Point, a peninsula jutting out into McSweeney's Bay, between Bundoran and Killybegs. Before we tell you what to explore, a few words about St. John's Eve. This date corresponds with the summer solstice, and so, despite the Christian implications, there's a lot of pre-Christian rituals associated with the day- bonfires, in particular, and you'll still witness this in parts of Ireland. The customs are all associated with strength, fertility and the return of a good harvest, I particularly like the one where young couples jump through the bonfire flames to guarantee plenty of children in the future... (yikes!) You might also ponder on the smart early Christians who matched one of the largest universal rituals (winter solstice) with the birth of Jesus, and the next biggest event, summer solstice, with John the Baptist... coincidence?
Anyhow, it doesn't have to be St. John's Eve to visit St. John's Point, it just reminded us that it's well worth a visit. It's about thirty minutes from us here, and a short distance into the peninsula, you'll see an old castle ruin against the backdrop of the Atlantic. This is MacSwyne (or Mac Sweeney) castle, - not too much left of it, but still a reminder of a powerful clan. The MacSweeneys were Scottish mercenaries to support the Donegal O'Donnells, and then stayed around to become a formidable clan. There are other castles associated with this family that are in better shape, and we'll get to that, but there is something about this crumbling old ruin, out on the edge of the sea, that inspires the imagination. You can drive further out on the point, and when you run out of road, park up, and walk towards the lighthouse. Your views are breath-taking- to your left you will have the Dartry Mountains sweeping down along south Donegal, Leitrim and Sligo, and to your right you have the Sliabh Liag Cliffs- and straight ahead is the Atlantic, with its big sky, and the sun playing peek-a-boo through the enthusiastic clouds. It's a lovely easy walk up to the lighthouse, and if you walk just past it, you will see the huge letters of EIRE laid out in white stone on the ground. This giant word, EIRE is the Irish word for Ireland, and these markers were laid out in WWII so that airmen flying from Allied air bases in Enniskillen would know where they were when they came in from manoeuvres in the Atlantic. Ireland was allegedly 'neutral' during WWII, (except it totally wasn't) and there was a corridor of airspace over Donegal that facilitated the Allies' shorter flight path out west. The entire coastline was marked and there are many places this big scrabble-sign is visible, with the number 70, (there are 83 points altogether). This particular EIRE is restored and well kept, it's a good one to show the kids. It's also a good segue to the crazy stories of the Wild Atlantic Way- from Vikings to Medieval Pirates to lighthouse lights being extinguished to thwart island landlords- and if you're not in story-telling mood, the relentless ebb and flow of the ocean out here will sooth all souls. In any weather, this is a lovely, easy, interesting trip. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 17 ‘The View’ at Bundoran Adventure Park
Right on our own doorstep, the big wheel keeps on turning all through the summer season, and it's a fabulous way to appreciate the miles of Atlantic coastline right beside us. Bundoran Adventure Park has all of the usual funfair elements, we recommend the whole experience as it's great value for families and a good laugh for the big kid in all of us - but for us, the best part is The View - it's not scary, it's not shaky - just a lovely way to get the bird's eye view of the town and surrounds. Sunset is our favourite time to do this, and we usually get our fair share of beautiful evenings, so time it well and you won't be disappointed.
Right on our own doorstep, the big wheel keeps on turning all through the summer season, and it's a fabulous way to appreciate the miles of Atlantic coastline right beside us. Bundoran Adventure Park has all of the usual funfair elements, we recommend the whole experience as it's great value for families and a good laugh for the big kid in all of us - but for us, the best part is The View - it's not scary, it's not shaky - just a lovely way to get the bird's eye view of the town and surrounds. Sunset is our favourite time to do this, and we usually get our fair share of beautiful evenings, so time it well and you won't be disappointed.
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 18 Catch a Movie (or go to the Pictures) - it's an age thing...
A holiday treat for many is to head for the cinema- maybe early in the day with the little 'uns, or maybe a date night for the grown-ups; Bundoran has a six-screen, state of the art comfy cinema, Eclipse Cinemas Bundoran with everything you expect, including family tickets, reclining seats, a shop that does not require you to be the King of Persia to buy yummy fresh popcorn, and a regular rotation of all the top movies. You can also listen to a weekly review of Bundoran movie releases with the wonderful Collie each Friday on Ocean FM Ireland or on Spotify Podcasts or YouTube- Collie will help you decide what's worth seeing. I'd also say that the cinema is a great option for a rainy day activity, but everyone knows it never rains in Donegal 🙂 enjoy!
A holiday treat for many is to head for the cinema- maybe early in the day with the little 'uns, or maybe a date night for the grown-ups; Bundoran has a six-screen, state of the art comfy cinema, Eclipse Cinemas Bundoran with everything you expect, including family tickets, reclining seats, a shop that does not require you to be the King of Persia to buy yummy fresh popcorn, and a regular rotation of all the top movies. You can also listen to a weekly review of Bundoran movie releases with the wonderful Collie each Friday on Ocean FM Ireland or on Spotify Podcasts or YouTube- Collie will help you decide what's worth seeing. I'd also say that the cinema is a great option for a rainy day activity, but everyone knows it never rains in Donegal 🙂 enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 19 Tullan Tin Can
From Malibu to Mauritius, you will find lovely places to eat, with amazing sea views, but we defy you to find a better place than the Tullan Tin Can, and you won't be pawning off your jewellery to pay the bill! The Tullan Tin Can is the beautiful shiny jewel overlooking magnificent Tullan Strand, and its lovely landscaped seated area allows you to enjoy it with a quality coffee and a full menu of yummy food options. Service is with a friendly smile, and whether you are coming back from a walk, surf, or just people-watching, this is one of the most beautiful outdoor café options in Ireland. It's a new arrival to the bustling Tullan beach area and much loved already... put it on your list! Take the turn at KFC Bundoran and follow it until you reach Tullan Strand Car Park- you'll see it there. Enjoy!
From Malibu to Mauritius, you will find lovely places to eat, with amazing sea views, but we defy you to find a better place than the Tullan Tin Can, and you won't be pawning off your jewellery to pay the bill! The Tullan Tin Can is the beautiful shiny jewel overlooking magnificent Tullan Strand, and its lovely landscaped seated area allows you to enjoy it with a quality coffee and a full menu of yummy food options. Service is with a friendly smile, and whether you are coming back from a walk, surf, or just people-watching, this is one of the most beautiful outdoor café options in Ireland. It's a new arrival to the bustling Tullan beach area and much loved already... put it on your list! Take the turn at KFC Bundoran and follow it until you reach Tullan Strand Car Park- you'll see it there. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 20 Mullaghderg Beach and Bonner's Bar
There are so many beautiful beaches in Donegal, you're spoilt for choice. One of our (less well known) favourites is Mullaghderg beach, which is between Kincasslagh and Mullaghduff, in the Rosses. It is an absolutely glorious stretch of white sand and green sea, and a gorgeous walk from the ample parking area across to the far end, under the old tower. This is not a beach for swimming, -if that's on your agenda, go to nearby Carrickfin beach, but if empty, pretty and views in all directions, including the islands, and Errigal peeping in the background is what you fancy, this is for you. After your walk, go five minutes up the road and stop of in Bonner's Bar for some lunch; a lovely local pub with great food and plenty of craic. Enjoy!
There are so many beautiful beaches in Donegal, you're spoilt for choice. One of our (less well known) favourites is Mullaghderg beach, which is between Kincasslagh and Mullaghduff, in the Rosses. It is an absolutely glorious stretch of white sand and green sea, and a gorgeous walk from the ample parking area across to the far end, under the old tower. This is not a beach for swimming, -if that's on your agenda, go to nearby Carrickfin beach, but if empty, pretty and views in all directions, including the islands, and Errigal peeping in the background is what you fancy, this is for you. After your walk, go five minutes up the road and stop of in Bonner's Bar for some lunch; a lovely local pub with great food and plenty of craic. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 21 Boat trip to the Sliabh Liag Cliffs with Paddy
The Sliabh Liag Cliffs are possibly the best known destination in Donegal, and a hike up there is well worth your time, but an alternative is a trip out with Paddy to see the full glory of the cliffs from the water. Please do make a call to Paddy to book - 0876284688 - and if you get the go-ahead, drive to Teelin Pier, a drive which, from any direction, is beautiful in itself. You'll have a fabulous experience, punctuated by Paddy's entertaining stories, and afterwards, pop into the The Rusty Mackerel for some brunch/lunch/dinner. Enjoy!
The Sliabh Liag Cliffs are possibly the best known destination in Donegal, and a hike up there is well worth your time, but an alternative is a trip out with Paddy to see the full glory of the cliffs from the water. Please do make a call to Paddy to book - 0876284688 - and if you get the go-ahead, drive to Teelin Pier, a drive which, from any direction, is beautiful in itself. You'll have a fabulous experience, punctuated by Paddy's entertaining stories, and afterwards, pop into the The Rusty Mackerel for some brunch/lunch/dinner. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 22 ‘The Bridle Path' walk to Glenveagh Castle
Glenveagh Castle is a popular day out for visitors to Donegal, but a less well known route down to the castle is called 'The Bridle Path' and it's fabulous. You can access the path from the castle, or you can get a shuttle bus to one end, so you are returning to base as you walk - or, if you want to do it from the melancholy end, there's a small car park at the back of the Derryveagh Mountains, and you can make your way towards the castle. You are walking right through the valley here, and between views of the lake, the castle, the towering edges of the mountains, the old cottages on the way, and the absolutely glorious absence of anything other than nature in sound and vision. There's a good trail here, and a gentle downward slope towards the castle, which seems not so gentle on the way back, so allow for that. Enjoy!
Glenveagh Castle is a popular day out for visitors to Donegal, but a less well known route down to the castle is called 'The Bridle Path' and it's fabulous. You can access the path from the castle, or you can get a shuttle bus to one end, so you are returning to base as you walk - or, if you want to do it from the melancholy end, there's a small car park at the back of the Derryveagh Mountains, and you can make your way towards the castle. You are walking right through the valley here, and between views of the lake, the castle, the towering edges of the mountains, the old cottages on the way, and the absolutely glorious absence of anything other than nature in sound and vision. There's a good trail here, and a gentle downward slope towards the castle, which seems not so gentle on the way back, so allow for that. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 23 The Best '99 in the world
Irish people are well aware of the deliciousness of the '99 Ice Cream Cone, but for those who don't know what a '99 is, it's soft whipped vanilla ice-cream in a wafer cone, with a chocolate flake in it. You can also customize with syrup and sprinkles, but the purist in us says flake only. There are lots of places to get a good '99, but Pearse O Neills Newsagents in Ballyshannon is the mecca - well worth the spin. When you get your goodies, take a walk over to the Mall Quay and admire the beautiful scenery down by the estuary. Enjoy!
Irish people are well aware of the deliciousness of the '99 Ice Cream Cone, but for those who don't know what a '99 is, it's soft whipped vanilla ice-cream in a wafer cone, with a chocolate flake in it. You can also customize with syrup and sprinkles, but the purist in us says flake only. There are lots of places to get a good '99, but Pearse O Neills Newsagents in Ballyshannon is the mecca - well worth the spin. When you get your goodies, take a walk over to the Mall Quay and admire the beautiful scenery down by the estuary. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 24 Wild Things
Spring & Summer are fantastic time for wildflowers, especially along the beach, and people seem to be a lot more inclined to let grassy verges and open areas grow wild, which has resulted in an absolute explosion of colour this year. A free and fun thing to do with little people is to investigate the wild flowers, teach them the names (there are some great apps on your phone that will identify the ones you don't know), and where the wildflowers are plentiful, kids can pick a few for home, and use them to make stuff - cards, pictures, dried flowers, pot pourri - Here are some photos of the Bundoran area at this time of year (early July) - I've put the names on the FB photos, and can't swear I'm exactly right, I am going to put down what I was taught myself, but will happily stand corrected if I'm wrong! I also love local and Irish names for these flowers, so I'll give you as much as I know. Enjoy!
Spring & Summer are fantastic time for wildflowers, especially along the beach, and people seem to be a lot more inclined to let grassy verges and open areas grow wild, which has resulted in an absolute explosion of colour this year. A free and fun thing to do with little people is to investigate the wild flowers, teach them the names (there are some great apps on your phone that will identify the ones you don't know), and where the wildflowers are plentiful, kids can pick a few for home, and use them to make stuff - cards, pictures, dried flowers, pot pourri - Here are some photos of the Bundoran area at this time of year (early July) - I've put the names on the FB photos, and can't swear I'm exactly right, I am going to put down what I was taught myself, but will happily stand corrected if I'm wrong! I also love local and Irish names for these flowers, so I'll give you as much as I know. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 25 See Johnny Gallagher and the Boxtie Band Live!
Even though Johnny and the Band pack in the stadiums all over the world, they often play locally, and do the Rory Gallagher Festival and regular gigs at the @atlanticapartotel - the New Year and Halloween gigs are legendary. While we have to endure some patience until the gigs return, if you love your music, it's well worth your while building a weekend break around a Boxtie gig. As soon as we can, we'll have them back on the stage, and we'll let you know!
Even though Johnny and the Band pack in the stadiums all over the world, they often play locally, and do the Rory Gallagher Festival and regular gigs at the @atlanticapartotel - the New Year and Halloween gigs are legendary. While we have to endure some patience until the gigs return, if you love your music, it's well worth your while building a weekend break around a Boxtie gig. As soon as we can, we'll have them back on the stage, and we'll let you know!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 26 The Islands part II - visit Arranmore Island
You should make sure to do at least one island trip when you visit Donegal. Tory Island is magnificent, but not always accessible with weather, and not everyone wants the 'robust' boat trip, so an equally magnificent alternative is Arranmore Island, which is only a 15-minute ferry from the mainland. The ferry leaves from the beautiful little harbour town of Burtonport, and before you know it, you are transported to a most idyllic Irish-speaking oasis, easily navigated on foot or by bicycle- the ferries can take cars over, but unless you really need it, it's better all round to leave it behind. My recommendation is to get walking immediately, with two destinations in mind- the lighthouse and the incredible steps down to the sea-caves on the Atlantic side, and en-route, the incredible sculpture in the centre of the lake that commemorates the emigrants' connection between Arranmore Island, and Beaver Island in the USA. As you climb uphill towards the centre of the island, the views of the Donegal Coast are spectacular, and then you are in a remote heartland, until you reach the lighthouse, where the caves and cliffs will leave you breathless. Arranmore is one of the few offshore islands that is still inhabited, and there are shops, pubs, hotels and guesthouses if you want to stay for a while, the pubs are mad craic, and the islanders as friendly as ever. It's magic. Enjoy!
You should make sure to do at least one island trip when you visit Donegal. Tory Island is magnificent, but not always accessible with weather, and not everyone wants the 'robust' boat trip, so an equally magnificent alternative is Arranmore Island, which is only a 15-minute ferry from the mainland. The ferry leaves from the beautiful little harbour town of Burtonport, and before you know it, you are transported to a most idyllic Irish-speaking oasis, easily navigated on foot or by bicycle- the ferries can take cars over, but unless you really need it, it's better all round to leave it behind. My recommendation is to get walking immediately, with two destinations in mind- the lighthouse and the incredible steps down to the sea-caves on the Atlantic side, and en-route, the incredible sculpture in the centre of the lake that commemorates the emigrants' connection between Arranmore Island, and Beaver Island in the USA. As you climb uphill towards the centre of the island, the views of the Donegal Coast are spectacular, and then you are in a remote heartland, until you reach the lighthouse, where the caves and cliffs will leave you breathless. Arranmore is one of the few offshore islands that is still inhabited, and there are shops, pubs, hotels and guesthouses if you want to stay for a while, the pubs are mad craic, and the islanders as friendly as ever. It's magic. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 27 Burtonport Railway Walk
This is a really lovely, leisurely walk that begins at the harbour, with beautiful views of the islands and coastline, and meanders up into the hillside, where the landscape changes to bog and heather, dotted with the ruins of long abandoned cottages and old railway bridges, gates and other features - you can ponder on the mystery of why, oh why the railways were all rendered redundant in Donegal and now we have only memories...this walk is ideal if you like a well-marked loop trail, it's mostly flat, and suitable for bikes or buggies, and there a longer option for the serious walkers. Return to Burtonport when you're done, and you can enjoy some lunch or a wee beverage in one of the pier front hostelries. Enjoy
This is a really lovely, leisurely walk that begins at the harbour, with beautiful views of the islands and coastline, and meanders up into the hillside, where the landscape changes to bog and heather, dotted with the ruins of long abandoned cottages and old railway bridges, gates and other features - you can ponder on the mystery of why, oh why the railways were all rendered redundant in Donegal and now we have only memories...this walk is ideal if you like a well-marked loop trail, it's mostly flat, and suitable for bikes or buggies, and there a longer option for the serious walkers. Return to Burtonport when you're done, and you can enjoy some lunch or a wee beverage in one of the pier front hostelries. Enjoy
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 28 -The Caves of Keash (Keshcorran Caves)
Ok, another little county border-hop here, but if you're in Bundoran or South Donegal, it's worth the trip to these extraordinary caves in Keash, Co. Sligo. There's a designated car park close by, and the little pathway up to the caves is steep, but mercifully short, and very much worth it. Not only are the deep, mysterious caves and their spooky inner passages great fun, but the views over Sligo are awesome. Choose a good, clear, dry day for this, otherwise the pathway will be muddy and your reason for the climb- the views - will be disappointing. Proper footwear is essential too, - and if you don't fancy the climb, it's still a lovely drive out this way, and you can see the caves from the roadside. Once again, Sligo, thank you for being our handsome neighbour!
Ok, another little county border-hop here, but if you're in Bundoran or South Donegal, it's worth the trip to these extraordinary caves in Keash, Co. Sligo. There's a designated car park close by, and the little pathway up to the caves is steep, but mercifully short, and very much worth it. Not only are the deep, mysterious caves and their spooky inner passages great fun, but the views over Sligo are awesome. Choose a good, clear, dry day for this, otherwise the pathway will be muddy and your reason for the climb- the views - will be disappointing. Proper footwear is essential too, - and if you don't fancy the climb, it's still a lovely drive out this way, and you can see the caves from the roadside. Once again, Sligo, thank you for being our handsome neighbour!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 29 The Stone of Sorrows & Birthplace of Colm Cille / Columba
Patrick is undoubtedly the most well-known Irish saint, he has a helluva feast day, with rivers dyed green, and the parades and the craic - so spare a thought for poor old Colm Cille (Columba), who is arguably deserving of at least as much attention, and would score a little higher on the scandal-ometre, as he copied a book, got done for copyright infringement, punished himself by emigrating to a Scottish island, but then established a great centre of education there, having established various churches and settlements in Ireland, including (possibly) Derry. Where it wasn't the man itself, it was definitely Columban followers. Unfortunately, unlike Paddy, he didn't write an autobiography, but there is still plenty of evidence of his 6C existence, although it does come with a heavy dose of mythology - for example, the Loch Ness Monster was supposed to have been driven to its watery bed by Colm. I'll tell you more about Colm Cille/ Columba in future posts, but obviously we are very proud of the fact that he was a Donegal man, born in beautiful Gartan, which is just a stunning part of the county. Today, we're visiting his place of birth, which, of course, is marked by a large high cross. But his birthplace is also marked by a small stone circle, and a flat slab or 'leac' (pronounced 'lack') which, according to legend, was where Colm's mother, Eithne, gave birth. It is also told that before Colm emigrated to Scotland, he spent his last night at this stone, and a tradition began of Donegal emigrants doing likewise- hence, the stone is now known as 'The Stone of Sorrows'. Also, if you lay flat on the stone and say a prayer to CC, it's supposed to cure loneliness and home sickness. I gave it a go, although I really wasn't too far from home, but I have been, so I did it for everyone else. Even if you're not drawn here by the folklore, the spirituality or the history, it is a really lovely place for a visit. Enjoy!
Patrick is undoubtedly the most well-known Irish saint, he has a helluva feast day, with rivers dyed green, and the parades and the craic - so spare a thought for poor old Colm Cille (Columba), who is arguably deserving of at least as much attention, and would score a little higher on the scandal-ometre, as he copied a book, got done for copyright infringement, punished himself by emigrating to a Scottish island, but then established a great centre of education there, having established various churches and settlements in Ireland, including (possibly) Derry. Where it wasn't the man itself, it was definitely Columban followers. Unfortunately, unlike Paddy, he didn't write an autobiography, but there is still plenty of evidence of his 6C existence, although it does come with a heavy dose of mythology - for example, the Loch Ness Monster was supposed to have been driven to its watery bed by Colm. I'll tell you more about Colm Cille/ Columba in future posts, but obviously we are very proud of the fact that he was a Donegal man, born in beautiful Gartan, which is just a stunning part of the county. Today, we're visiting his place of birth, which, of course, is marked by a large high cross. But his birthplace is also marked by a small stone circle, and a flat slab or 'leac' (pronounced 'lack') which, according to legend, was where Colm's mother, Eithne, gave birth. It is also told that before Colm emigrated to Scotland, he spent his last night at this stone, and a tradition began of Donegal emigrants doing likewise- hence, the stone is now known as 'The Stone of Sorrows'. Also, if you lay flat on the stone and say a prayer to CC, it's supposed to cure loneliness and home sickness. I gave it a go, although I really wasn't too far from home, but I have been, so I did it for everyone else. Even if you're not drawn here by the folklore, the spirituality or the history, it is a really lovely place for a visit. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 30 Bluestacks Drive
The Bluestack Mountains rise up in the centre of the county, filling the hinterland between Donegal Town, Frosses, Glenties, around to Fintown and Ballybofey. It's quite lovely as you drive north from Bundoran, their higgledy-piggeldy outline rising in front of you, and they have really fantastic, well-marked routes for walkers and hikers. You don't even need to be the outdoor type- a network of small country roads make for a beautiful leisurely road trip, and there are plenty of watering holes too, from the glamourous Harvey's Point and Lough Eske Castle to many little bakeries, coffee shops and deli counters along the way. You can escape to many isolated places in Donegal if you want, but how lucky we are to have a beautiful and accessible mountain drive as well! Have I mentioned before, that Donegal has it all? Enjoy!
The Bluestack Mountains rise up in the centre of the county, filling the hinterland between Donegal Town, Frosses, Glenties, around to Fintown and Ballybofey. It's quite lovely as you drive north from Bundoran, their higgledy-piggeldy outline rising in front of you, and they have really fantastic, well-marked routes for walkers and hikers. You don't even need to be the outdoor type- a network of small country roads make for a beautiful leisurely road trip, and there are plenty of watering holes too, from the glamourous Harvey's Point and Lough Eske Castle to many little bakeries, coffee shops and deli counters along the way. You can escape to many isolated places in Donegal if you want, but how lucky we are to have a beautiful and accessible mountain drive as well! Have I mentioned before, that Donegal has it all? Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 31 The Fairy Bridges at Bundoran
The Fairy Bridges are one of the main reasons that Bundoran became famous as a holiday destination- even before there was a town here, people would make their way down past Tullan Strand to see these extraordinary sea-arches, which are not only fascinating in themselves, but from the bridges you have beautiful views from Bundoran to Mullaghmore and out to Sliabh Liag, across Donegal Bay. The Fairy Bridges are mesmerizing - when the sea is high, the water churns beneath the bridges, sending up puffs of spray and mist; when it's calm, as it was today, it's got an exotic feel about it. The tide was so low we were able to get you a view from beneath the bridges as well as the usual aspect from above. We also got you the latest summer flowers, the beach bluebells, and some nice shots of Rougey walk and the Wishing Chair, all part of your visit here. If you look closely, you can spot the big wheel at Bundoran's funfair in the distance. We are blessed that the Rougey Walk and Fairy Bridges are within ten minutes walking distance from our base right here, and it is fabulous, free, and full of fairy folklore. Enjoy!
The Fairy Bridges are one of the main reasons that Bundoran became famous as a holiday destination- even before there was a town here, people would make their way down past Tullan Strand to see these extraordinary sea-arches, which are not only fascinating in themselves, but from the bridges you have beautiful views from Bundoran to Mullaghmore and out to Sliabh Liag, across Donegal Bay. The Fairy Bridges are mesmerizing - when the sea is high, the water churns beneath the bridges, sending up puffs of spray and mist; when it's calm, as it was today, it's got an exotic feel about it. The tide was so low we were able to get you a view from beneath the bridges as well as the usual aspect from above. We also got you the latest summer flowers, the beach bluebells, and some nice shots of Rougey walk and the Wishing Chair, all part of your visit here. If you look closely, you can spot the big wheel at Bundoran's funfair in the distance. We are blessed that the Rougey Walk and Fairy Bridges are within ten minutes walking distance from our base right here, and it is fabulous, free, and full of fairy folklore. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 32 The Glebe Gardens and Art Gallery
If (like me) you absolutely love beautiful gardens, you have to make your way to the Glebe Gardens and Gallery near Churchill, County Donegal. This beautiful house was the home of British Artist Derek Hill, who also spent a lot of time on Tory Island, not only painting fabulous seascapes, but inspiring a school of Art among the islanders. The gardens are gorgeous- lots of wildflowers and crooked paths and very a natural design, with a magical lake at the bottom, and lots of little outdoor installations to amuse the kids. Perfect for a lovely picnic. There is also a gallery there, which features exhibitions by local and national artists- and admission to the gallery and the gardens is free! In 'normal' times there are also tours of Hill's house, which does have a ticket fee, and that's where his own collection is, but it's not open at the moment. However, the gardens and gallery are absolutely worth the spin. Enjoy!
If (like me) you absolutely love beautiful gardens, you have to make your way to the Glebe Gardens and Gallery near Churchill, County Donegal. This beautiful house was the home of British Artist Derek Hill, who also spent a lot of time on Tory Island, not only painting fabulous seascapes, but inspiring a school of Art among the islanders. The gardens are gorgeous- lots of wildflowers and crooked paths and very a natural design, with a magical lake at the bottom, and lots of little outdoor installations to amuse the kids. Perfect for a lovely picnic. There is also a gallery there, which features exhibitions by local and national artists- and admission to the gallery and the gardens is free! In 'normal' times there are also tours of Hill's house, which does have a ticket fee, and that's where his own collection is, but it's not open at the moment. However, the gardens and gallery are absolutely worth the spin. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 33- Colmcille’s Abbey, Gartan
I promised you we'd come back to Colm Cille- or Columba, if you prefer the Latin; this old church ruin is built on the site of a former church, believed to be given to the saint by the O'Donnell people, to whom Colm would have been related. He built a monastic site here, and you can still see the very weathered crosses that would have marked the boundaries of the site. Marking the perimeter of the monastery was important, because they were spaces that offered sanctuary, from the law, or other enemies. The monasteries were the first sites of hospitality (literally), it was where healthcare was practiced, and these were very early community centres for the infirm and elderly. Naturally, the site here also has a holy well, and the views down to the lake are really gorgeous. There is a grave stone in the old abbey which supposedly marks the resting place of some of the great O'Donnells, - I stared at the carvings for some time, and forgive me, all I can see is Snoopy! Rest in Peace, Charley O'Donnell-Brown!
I promised you we'd come back to Colm Cille- or Columba, if you prefer the Latin; this old church ruin is built on the site of a former church, believed to be given to the saint by the O'Donnell people, to whom Colm would have been related. He built a monastic site here, and you can still see the very weathered crosses that would have marked the boundaries of the site. Marking the perimeter of the monastery was important, because they were spaces that offered sanctuary, from the law, or other enemies. The monasteries were the first sites of hospitality (literally), it was where healthcare was practiced, and these were very early community centres for the infirm and elderly. Naturally, the site here also has a holy well, and the views down to the lake are really gorgeous. There is a grave stone in the old abbey which supposedly marks the resting place of some of the great O'Donnells, - I stared at the carvings for some time, and forgive me, all I can see is Snoopy! Rest in Peace, Charley O'Donnell-Brown!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 34 Drumholm
I have a theory that there is nowhere in rural Ireland that does not have a fabulous historical site within a radius of a mile or two. Last Saturday, we had a really hot day, and I knew all the beaches and popular spots would be packed. So I pulled on the boots and decided to ramble in and around the quiet roads of Drumholm, to enjoy the rampant greenery, the mellifluous birdsong and merciful absence of crowds. But next thing, I round the corner and see an old graveyard. You know how I feel about old graveyards. And the next thing, I'm finding out that it’s built on an even older church site, which is thought now to be an important monastic site, established by Colm Cille's nephew, St. Ernan, who is thought to be buried there. There were also family vaults for the Hamilton and Thompson families, - you could see who had the money back in the day, and the setting of this tiny little find was so pretty - I was over the moon! So today's advice isn't so much a specific location, it's just- take your chances on a winding road anywhere in Donegal, and somewhere lovely will appear.
I have a theory that there is nowhere in rural Ireland that does not have a fabulous historical site within a radius of a mile or two. Last Saturday, we had a really hot day, and I knew all the beaches and popular spots would be packed. So I pulled on the boots and decided to ramble in and around the quiet roads of Drumholm, to enjoy the rampant greenery, the mellifluous birdsong and merciful absence of crowds. But next thing, I round the corner and see an old graveyard. You know how I feel about old graveyards. And the next thing, I'm finding out that it’s built on an even older church site, which is thought now to be an important monastic site, established by Colm Cille's nephew, St. Ernan, who is thought to be buried there. There were also family vaults for the Hamilton and Thompson families, - you could see who had the money back in the day, and the setting of this tiny little find was so pretty - I was over the moon! So today's advice isn't so much a specific location, it's just- take your chances on a winding road anywhere in Donegal, and somewhere lovely will appear.
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 35 Cruit Island (pronounced 'Critch') Island,is a small and beautiful outcrop close to Kincasslagh.
It is connected to the mainland by a small bridge, but other than a smattering of homes and a golf club (that, incidentally, is the most beautiful course that you have ever seen), it’s all wild grasses, hidden coves, strand, bog and big mad sky.
As you take in the staggering beauty of the island, you will smell both the peat fires burning, and the salty smell of the busy sea. While it's lovely any time, I honestly recommend this when the weather is wild and windy - get your raingear on, bring a flask of tea, and brace yourself for cobweb-clearing freshness that you couldn't buy. Great for walkers, and when you finish up, drive on to Cáislean óir in Annagry for a fabulous feed of fresh local yum-ness.
It is connected to the mainland by a small bridge, but other than a smattering of homes and a golf club (that, incidentally, is the most beautiful course that you have ever seen), it’s all wild grasses, hidden coves, strand, bog and big mad sky.
As you take in the staggering beauty of the island, you will smell both the peat fires burning, and the salty smell of the busy sea. While it's lovely any time, I honestly recommend this when the weather is wild and windy - get your raingear on, bring a flask of tea, and brace yourself for cobweb-clearing freshness that you couldn't buy. Great for walkers, and when you finish up, drive on to Cáislean óir in Annagry for a fabulous feed of fresh local yum-ness.
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal-Trip 36 Malin Head
It's a long drive from Bundoran up to the most northerly tip of the county, but Malin Head is well worth the drive- you need to insta yourself by the Malin Head marker, and explore the wild scenery that brought the Star Wars people here to film scenes for 'The Last Jedi'. It's very funny, stopping off in the little shop just before the end of the road, and seeing all the merch there. But you can see why the sea stacks and crazy wild coastline drew the Hollywood people here- it's staggeringly impressive. A great place to show the kids the WW2 markers, and there's a fantastic cliff-walk along the head. The whole peninsula of Inishowen is filled with goodies, there are many terrific places you can stop by on the way up North. If you do have time, do an overnight (recommend McGrory's in Culdaff for a gorgeous night's stay & meal) and explore as much as you can.
It's a long drive from Bundoran up to the most northerly tip of the county, but Malin Head is well worth the drive- you need to insta yourself by the Malin Head marker, and explore the wild scenery that brought the Star Wars people here to film scenes for 'The Last Jedi'. It's very funny, stopping off in the little shop just before the end of the road, and seeing all the merch there. But you can see why the sea stacks and crazy wild coastline drew the Hollywood people here- it's staggeringly impressive. A great place to show the kids the WW2 markers, and there's a fantastic cliff-walk along the head. The whole peninsula of Inishowen is filled with goodies, there are many terrific places you can stop by on the way up North. If you do have time, do an overnight (recommend McGrory's in Culdaff for a gorgeous night's stay & meal) and explore as much as you can.
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal -Trip 37 Dooey Dune
This is a mad sand dune- it's MASSIVE! And the perfect place to bring energetic kids, or doggies, or both. You'll find the dune at the bottom of Dooey Beach, but you can see it from miles away- like a lunar landscape. The beach itself is lovely, but the challenge of climbing the giant dune is great craic- channel your inner Lawrence of Arabia (if you're old enough), and get conquering this monster! Or- if it's a sunny day, just bring a frozen cocktail and pretend you're in Dubai. For lunch, there's an excellent deli just outside Glenties, or swing back by Ardara and visit the fabulous Nancy's Bar. Enjoy!
This is a mad sand dune- it's MASSIVE! And the perfect place to bring energetic kids, or doggies, or both. You'll find the dune at the bottom of Dooey Beach, but you can see it from miles away- like a lunar landscape. The beach itself is lovely, but the challenge of climbing the giant dune is great craic- channel your inner Lawrence of Arabia (if you're old enough), and get conquering this monster! Or- if it's a sunny day, just bring a frozen cocktail and pretend you're in Dubai. For lunch, there's an excellent deli just outside Glenties, or swing back by Ardara and visit the fabulous Nancy's Bar. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 38 The Gleniff Horseshoe (Sligo)
We're border-hopping again, just a few miles from Bundoran, the awesome Gleniff Horseshoe - perfect for a drive, if you have folks who are not walkers, the road takes you right around the horseshoe in a loop. But if you can, pull up and admire the majestic scenery, where the Dartry Mountains conjugate at a terrific cul-de-sac that is entrenched in mythology- up to the right, you'll see Diarmaid and Gráinne's cave, and some old ruins and a waterfall add to the postcard-perfection of this location. It's awesome any time, but if you catch it with a smattering of snow, you'll feel like a Viking. After your visit here, why not continue on the delightful village of Mullaghmore- every where’s good here, and enjoy a close-up view of Classie Bawn Castle.
We're border-hopping again, just a few miles from Bundoran, the awesome Gleniff Horseshoe - perfect for a drive, if you have folks who are not walkers, the road takes you right around the horseshoe in a loop. But if you can, pull up and admire the majestic scenery, where the Dartry Mountains conjugate at a terrific cul-de-sac that is entrenched in mythology- up to the right, you'll see Diarmaid and Gráinne's cave, and some old ruins and a waterfall add to the postcard-perfection of this location. It's awesome any time, but if you catch it with a smattering of snow, you'll feel like a Viking. After your visit here, why not continue on the delightful village of Mullaghmore- every where’s good here, and enjoy a close-up view of Classie Bawn Castle.
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 39 Sliabh Liag & Killybegs Seafood Shack
Chances are, you already heard about Sliabh Liag. It's one of the most amazing experiences in Donegal- these towering sea cliffs are a wonderful sight, and whether you just ponder on the viewing deck, or take the pathway up to the higher mountain, it will be one of the stand-out memories of your visit. You cannot drive up there anymore, and it's a strenuous hike, but you can park and get a shuttle bus to the viewing point (recommended) and begin your explorations from there. Having earned a treat, return to Killybegs, and get in the line at the Seafood Shack, right on the sea front. This is where you get the freshest fish and chips in all the land, served with a smile by Mairead Anderson and her team. And, if you fancy eating indoors, with a pint, pop in to the Harbour Bar to Michael and Bernie, they'll serve you up a nice cold one with your lovely food. Killybegs is a gorgeous little town, with a burgeoning reputation for really good food- there's also a fab fresh fish shop there, and if you feel like splashing out, the Boathouse Restaurant is eye-wateringly delicious.
Enjoy!
Chances are, you already heard about Sliabh Liag. It's one of the most amazing experiences in Donegal- these towering sea cliffs are a wonderful sight, and whether you just ponder on the viewing deck, or take the pathway up to the higher mountain, it will be one of the stand-out memories of your visit. You cannot drive up there anymore, and it's a strenuous hike, but you can park and get a shuttle bus to the viewing point (recommended) and begin your explorations from there. Having earned a treat, return to Killybegs, and get in the line at the Seafood Shack, right on the sea front. This is where you get the freshest fish and chips in all the land, served with a smile by Mairead Anderson and her team. And, if you fancy eating indoors, with a pint, pop in to the Harbour Bar to Michael and Bernie, they'll serve you up a nice cold one with your lovely food. Killybegs is a gorgeous little town, with a burgeoning reputation for really good food- there's also a fab fresh fish shop there, and if you feel like splashing out, the Boathouse Restaurant is eye-wateringly delicious.
Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 40 Belleek Border Hop
Our nearest neighbour across the border is the pretty town of Belleek, and it's well worth a trip in this direction, not least for a visit to the Belleek Pottery Center. The Centre includes a pottery/ceramic museum, a magnificent showroom/shop and a lovely café, where homemade cakes are served up on Belleek China (natch). Also, can I comment on their spotless and lovely bathrooms, also magnificent in their porcelain-ness. Check out the most amazing mirror in the museum, made for a special exhibition in London. They have lots of lovely and very reasonably priced goodies in the shop, and they ship, so you don't have to worry about delicates making their way home (except for yourself). But don't stop there, go on a few miles towards Boa Island, take a small right turn to the Caldragh Graveyard, and stop in to see the enigmatic Janus figure, an iron-age carved stone with two faces. This he/she figure has a smaller buddy beside them, and it's quite incredible to see something this old and magnificent in the centre of an old and quiet graveyard. If you're stopping off for lunch, check out the Thatch in the centre of Belleek, a wonderfully quaint café with a half-door, and lots of old collectibles and antiques dotted about. Then, as you cross over the River Erne on your return to Donegal, note the old fort up to your left, and beautiful Lough Erne to your right.
Enjoy!
Our nearest neighbour across the border is the pretty town of Belleek, and it's well worth a trip in this direction, not least for a visit to the Belleek Pottery Center. The Centre includes a pottery/ceramic museum, a magnificent showroom/shop and a lovely café, where homemade cakes are served up on Belleek China (natch). Also, can I comment on their spotless and lovely bathrooms, also magnificent in their porcelain-ness. Check out the most amazing mirror in the museum, made for a special exhibition in London. They have lots of lovely and very reasonably priced goodies in the shop, and they ship, so you don't have to worry about delicates making their way home (except for yourself). But don't stop there, go on a few miles towards Boa Island, take a small right turn to the Caldragh Graveyard, and stop in to see the enigmatic Janus figure, an iron-age carved stone with two faces. This he/she figure has a smaller buddy beside them, and it's quite incredible to see something this old and magnificent in the centre of an old and quiet graveyard. If you're stopping off for lunch, check out the Thatch in the centre of Belleek, a wonderfully quaint café with a half-door, and lots of old collectibles and antiques dotted about. Then, as you cross over the River Erne on your return to Donegal, note the old fort up to your left, and beautiful Lough Erne to your right.
Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 41 Beach Trek with Donegal Equestrian Centre
Tullan Strand in Bundoran offers miles of golden beach, and fabulous views from Mullaghmore to Sliabh Liag, and a fantastic way to appreciate this view is on horseback. Rachel and her team at Donegal Equestrian Centre take small groups along the dunes, and you needn't worry if you are an absolute beginner- they cater for this, and have some lovely gentle horses that know the way - and they supply you with suitable footwear and hard hats, so it's a really lovely way to spend an hour or so. The Centre is just on the Finner Road outside Bundoran, and you can join with a group, or book in your own party - but they do book up fast, so don't leave it until the last minute... We've done this many times, and each time has been a real joy. Have fun!
Tullan Strand in Bundoran offers miles of golden beach, and fabulous views from Mullaghmore to Sliabh Liag, and a fantastic way to appreciate this view is on horseback. Rachel and her team at Donegal Equestrian Centre take small groups along the dunes, and you needn't worry if you are an absolute beginner- they cater for this, and have some lovely gentle horses that know the way - and they supply you with suitable footwear and hard hats, so it's a really lovely way to spend an hour or so. The Centre is just on the Finner Road outside Bundoran, and you can join with a group, or book in your own party - but they do book up fast, so don't leave it until the last minute... We've done this many times, and each time has been a real joy. Have fun!
Top 50 things to do in Donegal - Trip 42 Sunset Meditations
Donegal sunsets are impressive all year round, but in summertime up here in the Northwest, they will be late sunsets, which means many of our surfers have time after work to paddle out and catch a few waves. The Rougey walk, which goes from Bundoran's main beach around to Tullan Strand offers many excellent viewing points to observe Donegal Bay's big sky, green ocean and our hardy wet-suited community that will persevere until the last sunbeam sinks down behind Sliabh Liag. There are plenty places to just sit and enjoy this daily ritual- benches along the way, or plenty little nooks in the grass and cliffs to find your own private space. The evening we took these photos, we met a man at the Wishing Chair, deep in thought, eyes closed. After a few minutes, as he walked away, he said to us 'best place to say a wee prayer for an absent friend'. Its true- there is something deeply profound, or as Wordsworth said, 'a sense sublime of something far more deeply interfused, whose dwelling is the light of setting suns'.
If you're not feeling as meditational as we were, it's great craic just willing on the surfers- admiring the experienced paddlers who make it look easy, and promising yourself you'll give it a go sometime.
Donegal sunsets are impressive all year round, but in summertime up here in the Northwest, they will be late sunsets, which means many of our surfers have time after work to paddle out and catch a few waves. The Rougey walk, which goes from Bundoran's main beach around to Tullan Strand offers many excellent viewing points to observe Donegal Bay's big sky, green ocean and our hardy wet-suited community that will persevere until the last sunbeam sinks down behind Sliabh Liag. There are plenty places to just sit and enjoy this daily ritual- benches along the way, or plenty little nooks in the grass and cliffs to find your own private space. The evening we took these photos, we met a man at the Wishing Chair, deep in thought, eyes closed. After a few minutes, as he walked away, he said to us 'best place to say a wee prayer for an absent friend'. Its true- there is something deeply profound, or as Wordsworth said, 'a sense sublime of something far more deeply interfused, whose dwelling is the light of setting suns'.
If you're not feeling as meditational as we were, it's great craic just willing on the surfers- admiring the experienced paddlers who make it look easy, and promising yourself you'll give it a go sometime.
Top 50 things to do in Donegal - Trip 43 Catsby Cave & St. Patrick's Well
Just a few miles from Bundoran is the historic town of Ballyshannon, and one of Ballyshannon's hidden jewels is a mesmerizing combination of an old cave, a holy well, a rag tree and the remains of a 12th Century Cistercian Abbey that was associated with the O'Donnells, once Donegal's most powerful ruling family. As a very scenic walk, it ticks all the boxes- the river, the green canopy, the estuary, the old bridge, - but it is also a multifaceted historical site, - the cave was used as a secret outdoor mass venue during penal times, you can still see some of the original stones from the Abbey, and if you follow the pathway down to St. Patrick's Well, you'll see the embodiment of the cultural juxtaposition between pre-Christian customs and Catholic rituals in the statue and all its symbols, right next to a wishing tree, with its various decorations tied there by visitors. It's a very cute tradition, but please do not feel the need to tie or leave anything behind you. The original rags that used to be left behind were non-synthetics, but now you see all kinds of rubbish - no need at all for this, a quiet prayer/poem/moment and a photo will do the job just as well! Enjoy!
Just a few miles from Bundoran is the historic town of Ballyshannon, and one of Ballyshannon's hidden jewels is a mesmerizing combination of an old cave, a holy well, a rag tree and the remains of a 12th Century Cistercian Abbey that was associated with the O'Donnells, once Donegal's most powerful ruling family. As a very scenic walk, it ticks all the boxes- the river, the green canopy, the estuary, the old bridge, - but it is also a multifaceted historical site, - the cave was used as a secret outdoor mass venue during penal times, you can still see some of the original stones from the Abbey, and if you follow the pathway down to St. Patrick's Well, you'll see the embodiment of the cultural juxtaposition between pre-Christian customs and Catholic rituals in the statue and all its symbols, right next to a wishing tree, with its various decorations tied there by visitors. It's a very cute tradition, but please do not feel the need to tie or leave anything behind you. The original rags that used to be left behind were non-synthetics, but now you see all kinds of rubbish - no need at all for this, a quiet prayer/poem/moment and a photo will do the job just as well! Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 44 Away to the Glen!
You can't come to Donegal and not go to Glencolmcille, - aside from the walks, the views, the beautiful Irish language that you'll hear, you have to get yourself to Glen Folk Village, one of the friendliest places in the land, and a really well-done restoration of Donegal living over the last few centuries- there are a number of thatched cottages, including a very quaint fisherman's cottage, with all of the paraphernalia of the time, - farm, fishing, cultural and domestic implements which help us understand coastal life in these tough communities. The folk village, staffed by locals, has a lovely cafe-kitchen, where you can have the best home-cooked lunch you can imagine- we always have the soup here, and home-made brown bread, and apple tart with fresh cream.... slobber! The village also has reconstructions of the round tower, the hedge school, and a really stunning map of Ireland in which each of the counties is carved from its own local stone.
The second stop you should make on this day out is at the 'Away to Me' sheepdog trial demonstrations, over in nearby Malinbeg. Our friends F.J. and Meghan have a farm, with sheep, and very clever sheep dogs, and the kids (big or small) will love it here, enjoying the tricks and magic of the working farm.
It's a big day out, you'll have a phone full of fantastic photos and kids ready for a big sleep when you get back to base. Enjoy!
You can't come to Donegal and not go to Glencolmcille, - aside from the walks, the views, the beautiful Irish language that you'll hear, you have to get yourself to Glen Folk Village, one of the friendliest places in the land, and a really well-done restoration of Donegal living over the last few centuries- there are a number of thatched cottages, including a very quaint fisherman's cottage, with all of the paraphernalia of the time, - farm, fishing, cultural and domestic implements which help us understand coastal life in these tough communities. The folk village, staffed by locals, has a lovely cafe-kitchen, where you can have the best home-cooked lunch you can imagine- we always have the soup here, and home-made brown bread, and apple tart with fresh cream.... slobber! The village also has reconstructions of the round tower, the hedge school, and a really stunning map of Ireland in which each of the counties is carved from its own local stone.
The second stop you should make on this day out is at the 'Away to Me' sheepdog trial demonstrations, over in nearby Malinbeg. Our friends F.J. and Meghan have a farm, with sheep, and very clever sheep dogs, and the kids (big or small) will love it here, enjoying the tricks and magic of the working farm.
It's a big day out, you'll have a phone full of fantastic photos and kids ready for a big sleep when you get back to base. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 45 Ramelton
The beautiful and historic town of Ramelton is built on the River Leannan, which flows into Lough Swilly, and it was a place of strategic importance for the defence of Ulster, which means the O’Donnells were there in the old days, and promptly displaced in the early 17th Century by the newcomers from England and Scotland. By 1622 there were 57 families of Scottish descent living in the town, and you can see by the architecture that it is different to other Donegal towns. Because of the excellent access given by the port, the town became a thriving center of business in the 19th century, with a busy linen industry, a corn mill, a salmon fishery and a brewery. It was an important center of Ulster-Scots culture, it was the birthplace of Francis Makamie, who founded Presbyterianism in the USA, and it was also the home of the parents of James Buchanan, who went on to become President of the USA- albeit, probably one of the worst! But Ramelton has had many more successful residents, and they are honored in this lovely town with a series of monuments.
There is a beautiful Mall in the centre of the town, showing off the Georgian architecture, with some lovely little cafes for a posh coffee as you enjoy the river walk. Before you leave, stop at the roofless ruins of 17th-century Tullyaugnish Church, and check out its unique window and the Romanesque carvings in the eastern wall. If you're stopping here for refreshments, visit the Bridge Bar - full of atmosphere and friendliness. Enjoy!
The beautiful and historic town of Ramelton is built on the River Leannan, which flows into Lough Swilly, and it was a place of strategic importance for the defence of Ulster, which means the O’Donnells were there in the old days, and promptly displaced in the early 17th Century by the newcomers from England and Scotland. By 1622 there were 57 families of Scottish descent living in the town, and you can see by the architecture that it is different to other Donegal towns. Because of the excellent access given by the port, the town became a thriving center of business in the 19th century, with a busy linen industry, a corn mill, a salmon fishery and a brewery. It was an important center of Ulster-Scots culture, it was the birthplace of Francis Makamie, who founded Presbyterianism in the USA, and it was also the home of the parents of James Buchanan, who went on to become President of the USA- albeit, probably one of the worst! But Ramelton has had many more successful residents, and they are honored in this lovely town with a series of monuments.
There is a beautiful Mall in the centre of the town, showing off the Georgian architecture, with some lovely little cafes for a posh coffee as you enjoy the river walk. Before you leave, stop at the roofless ruins of 17th-century Tullyaugnish Church, and check out its unique window and the Romanesque carvings in the eastern wall. If you're stopping here for refreshments, visit the Bridge Bar - full of atmosphere and friendliness. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 46 Doe Castle
If castle ruins and old graveyards are your thing, take a visit to Doe, one of the MacSweeneys castles on the shores of the stunning Sheephaven Bay. It's very near Ards forest, which has a kids' playground and fantastic walks but the castle is your spot for a bit of history, a good ghost story, and a lovely picnic. The story is Donegal's version of Romeo and Juliet, and dates back to the 1600’s when legend has it that Aileen MacSweeneys threw herself out of the highest window of Doe Castle after her father murdered her lover, Turlough O’Boyle, son of his bitter enemy.
Aileen was daughter of Maolmhuire of Doe. Turlough was an O'Boyle from Ballymore. He often went hunting deer in Duntally woods, and it was there he first met 'sweet Aileen' of Doe. The O'Boyle's and the MacSweeneys hated each other, but Aileen and Turlough were very much in love. When Maolmhuire heard of the attachment, he was furious and confined Aileen to the top room in the Castle Tower. Turlough would often go fishing on the Lackagh River in the hope of seeing Aileen. While he was out fishing the MacSweeneys captured him and took him back to the Castle. One night Aileen looked out the window and to her horror saw the dead body of her beloved Turlough being prepared for burial. At the sight, Aileen jumped from the tower to her death. It is said that the ghost of Turlough and Aileen rowing their boat on Lackagh River can still be seen....
The drive is about an hour and a half from Bundoran, and you can also check out Marble Hill beach while you're in this area- and if you've lots of time, drive the loop around Port Na Blagh, Falcarragh and back to Letterkenny through Dunlewey.... absolutely stunning!
“Wild are thy hills O Donegal, that frown and darkly rise
As if to greet the mist that falls upon them from the skies
Dark, dark thy hills, and darker still thy mountain torrents flow
But none so dark as Maolmuire’s heart, in his castle hall at Doe.”
If castle ruins and old graveyards are your thing, take a visit to Doe, one of the MacSweeneys castles on the shores of the stunning Sheephaven Bay. It's very near Ards forest, which has a kids' playground and fantastic walks but the castle is your spot for a bit of history, a good ghost story, and a lovely picnic. The story is Donegal's version of Romeo and Juliet, and dates back to the 1600’s when legend has it that Aileen MacSweeneys threw herself out of the highest window of Doe Castle after her father murdered her lover, Turlough O’Boyle, son of his bitter enemy.
Aileen was daughter of Maolmhuire of Doe. Turlough was an O'Boyle from Ballymore. He often went hunting deer in Duntally woods, and it was there he first met 'sweet Aileen' of Doe. The O'Boyle's and the MacSweeneys hated each other, but Aileen and Turlough were very much in love. When Maolmhuire heard of the attachment, he was furious and confined Aileen to the top room in the Castle Tower. Turlough would often go fishing on the Lackagh River in the hope of seeing Aileen. While he was out fishing the MacSweeneys captured him and took him back to the Castle. One night Aileen looked out the window and to her horror saw the dead body of her beloved Turlough being prepared for burial. At the sight, Aileen jumped from the tower to her death. It is said that the ghost of Turlough and Aileen rowing their boat on Lackagh River can still be seen....
The drive is about an hour and a half from Bundoran, and you can also check out Marble Hill beach while you're in this area- and if you've lots of time, drive the loop around Port Na Blagh, Falcarragh and back to Letterkenny through Dunlewey.... absolutely stunning!
“Wild are thy hills O Donegal, that frown and darkly rise
As if to greet the mist that falls upon them from the skies
Dark, dark thy hills, and darker still thy mountain torrents flow
But none so dark as Maolmuire’s heart, in his castle hall at Doe.”
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 47 Ardnamona Woods
& Harvey's Point
You probably have Harvey's Point on your 'to-do' list, but before you go, why not get the steps in first - just at the top of Lough Eske, you'll find the beautiful Ardnamona woods, a quiet Nature Reserve with a sympathetically created walking path which loops around large oak, hazel and holly trees in a woodland that is left in its natural state. There are beautiful la mosses, bluebells, wood sorrel, streams and the lakeside to enjoy on this delightful walk developed by National Parks and Wildlife Service. The wood is also home to red squirrel, badger, fox, pine martin and red deer. You can take the doggie as long as he stays on a lead, and enjoy ridiculously lovely views of both the lake, and the Bluestack Mountains. And now you can pop into Harvey's Point, you've earned a fabulous meal, and this is where to find it, tell Noel we said hello!
& Harvey's Point
You probably have Harvey's Point on your 'to-do' list, but before you go, why not get the steps in first - just at the top of Lough Eske, you'll find the beautiful Ardnamona woods, a quiet Nature Reserve with a sympathetically created walking path which loops around large oak, hazel and holly trees in a woodland that is left in its natural state. There are beautiful la mosses, bluebells, wood sorrel, streams and the lakeside to enjoy on this delightful walk developed by National Parks and Wildlife Service. The wood is also home to red squirrel, badger, fox, pine martin and red deer. You can take the doggie as long as he stays on a lead, and enjoy ridiculously lovely views of both the lake, and the Bluestack Mountains. And now you can pop into Harvey's Point, you've earned a fabulous meal, and this is where to find it, tell Noel we said hello!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 48 Doagh Famine Village and Nancy's Barn
Doagh Famine Village is - well, it's hard to explain what it is, it is a lot of things! First of all, it is genuinely the family home of the owners, and they've reconstructed several cottages and buildings to tell the story of the Irish Famine, and how Donegal people survived the last three centuries. This includes a tour through Famine Ireland, but there's loads more, including a riveting description of how wakes were held, a Poitín-tasting session, a reconstructed Orange Hall, an I.R.A.safe house, a Traveller exhibition, and (I kid you not), a kind of scary Halloween Ghost house. Pat, the guide, is terrific, and his knowledge of customs and folklore is amazing. The exhibition is theatrical, to say the least, you won't be surprised to hear that in December, Doagh Village is transformed into Santa's Lapland Village! There is a lot of information, and a lot of contemporary comparative references to hunger and poverty - it probably won't enthrall younger children, but for teens and adults, it's definitely worth the admission fee. As you are passing through Ballyliffen, absolutely make a reservation for lunch at Nancy's Barn, one of the best restaurants in Donegal, and one of the friendliest. It is always busy, so book in advance. Enjoy!
Doagh Famine Village is - well, it's hard to explain what it is, it is a lot of things! First of all, it is genuinely the family home of the owners, and they've reconstructed several cottages and buildings to tell the story of the Irish Famine, and how Donegal people survived the last three centuries. This includes a tour through Famine Ireland, but there's loads more, including a riveting description of how wakes were held, a Poitín-tasting session, a reconstructed Orange Hall, an I.R.A.safe house, a Traveller exhibition, and (I kid you not), a kind of scary Halloween Ghost house. Pat, the guide, is terrific, and his knowledge of customs and folklore is amazing. The exhibition is theatrical, to say the least, you won't be surprised to hear that in December, Doagh Village is transformed into Santa's Lapland Village! There is a lot of information, and a lot of contemporary comparative references to hunger and poverty - it probably won't enthrall younger children, but for teens and adults, it's definitely worth the admission fee. As you are passing through Ballyliffen, absolutely make a reservation for lunch at Nancy's Barn, one of the best restaurants in Donegal, and one of the friendliest. It is always busy, so book in advance. Enjoy!
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal- Trip 49 Heavenly Rossnowlagh
A drive out to Rossnowlagh from Bundoran is a short one, but there are loads of things to see and do on the way. The drive will take you through Ballyshannon, and and then you also have the option to take a detour down to Creevy Harbour on the way; gorgeous hotel there, and beautiful views. Further on towards Rossnowlagh, you'll see an inauspicious old church it is, in fact perhaps the site of one of the oldest churches you can visit in Ireland, the church of St. Barron, built in the 6th Century. You can also see the ruins of Kilbarron Castle from here, and the area is very much connected with Michéal O' Cleirigh, one of the authors of the Annals of the Four Masters. Possibly not well known to everyone, but a bit of a rock star in terms of Irish book history, it's worth a look if you're a history buff.
The meaning of Rossnowlagh is 'Heavenly headland' and it is well named. The beach at Rossnowlagh is fabulous, but it is from the rocky heights of the headland that it is most appreciated. If you're looking for glorious food, you have two restaurants right there on the cliff- Smuggler's and the Gaslight, both of which we've found very good- and then close by, there is the Franciscan Friary. This relatively modern friary replaced the much older Friary in nearby Donegal town, built in the fifteenth century by the O'Donnells, and destroyed early in the seventeenth century. The current friary operates as a friendly retreat center and there is a beautiful winding loop walk that offers the opportunity of spiritual reflection with stunning views of Donegal Bay. Enjoy
A drive out to Rossnowlagh from Bundoran is a short one, but there are loads of things to see and do on the way. The drive will take you through Ballyshannon, and and then you also have the option to take a detour down to Creevy Harbour on the way; gorgeous hotel there, and beautiful views. Further on towards Rossnowlagh, you'll see an inauspicious old church it is, in fact perhaps the site of one of the oldest churches you can visit in Ireland, the church of St. Barron, built in the 6th Century. You can also see the ruins of Kilbarron Castle from here, and the area is very much connected with Michéal O' Cleirigh, one of the authors of the Annals of the Four Masters. Possibly not well known to everyone, but a bit of a rock star in terms of Irish book history, it's worth a look if you're a history buff.
The meaning of Rossnowlagh is 'Heavenly headland' and it is well named. The beach at Rossnowlagh is fabulous, but it is from the rocky heights of the headland that it is most appreciated. If you're looking for glorious food, you have two restaurants right there on the cliff- Smuggler's and the Gaslight, both of which we've found very good- and then close by, there is the Franciscan Friary. This relatively modern friary replaced the much older Friary in nearby Donegal town, built in the fifteenth century by the O'Donnells, and destroyed early in the seventeenth century. The current friary operates as a friendly retreat center and there is a beautiful winding loop walk that offers the opportunity of spiritual reflection with stunning views of Donegal Bay. Enjoy
Top 50 Things to do in Donegal #LOVE DONEGAL
It's a coincidence, but a lovely one that the day we complete this series of 50 things to do in Donegal, it is actually August 18, #lovedonegal day! Yes, it's August, and as you'll see from the photos, it's a gusty grey Atlantic Day. And we're going to be honest with you here. We could post pics of Donegal looking like the Greek Islands, and so often, at any time during the year, we get these stunning, blue-sky days that turn Donegal into an enviable paradise. This can happen in December, February, May, ... we never know, but it happens. But by the same token, we can get wind, rain, mist, fog, frost, sideways rain, the other sideways rain, low clouds, - because we are right on the front line of the Atlantic's moods. The last time I would probably plan an outdoor event in Donegal would be July or August, because as soon as you think you can guess when Donegal will produce fine weather, she will do her best to confound you.
But here is my point. Wind, hail, shine, rain, gusts or froth, this county is always always beautiful. Our point in case - today's final trip is a walk around Rougey Rock in Bundoran, a day that nearly blew the ears off my poor doggie. It was raining softly, and low cloud hovered just above the water, and Bundoran's summer carnival was soft-focused in the mist, and the gulls dive-bombed into foamy waves. We were wearing waterproofs and boots and hats - in August, but once we were out there, you could feel the freshest air in your lungs, there was the music of the Atlantic, skin tingling with the salty spray, there were cheerful hellos from the other weather warriors, and on our way back, we visited the The Salty Fox Cafe (Tullan Strand) where we got lip-smacking home-made carrot cake and hot coffee, served by happy friendly people who love their jobs. That's our 50 ideas done, and we can't love this place any more, time for you too to #lovedonegal! Enjoy.
It's a coincidence, but a lovely one that the day we complete this series of 50 things to do in Donegal, it is actually August 18, #lovedonegal day! Yes, it's August, and as you'll see from the photos, it's a gusty grey Atlantic Day. And we're going to be honest with you here. We could post pics of Donegal looking like the Greek Islands, and so often, at any time during the year, we get these stunning, blue-sky days that turn Donegal into an enviable paradise. This can happen in December, February, May, ... we never know, but it happens. But by the same token, we can get wind, rain, mist, fog, frost, sideways rain, the other sideways rain, low clouds, - because we are right on the front line of the Atlantic's moods. The last time I would probably plan an outdoor event in Donegal would be July or August, because as soon as you think you can guess when Donegal will produce fine weather, she will do her best to confound you.
But here is my point. Wind, hail, shine, rain, gusts or froth, this county is always always beautiful. Our point in case - today's final trip is a walk around Rougey Rock in Bundoran, a day that nearly blew the ears off my poor doggie. It was raining softly, and low cloud hovered just above the water, and Bundoran's summer carnival was soft-focused in the mist, and the gulls dive-bombed into foamy waves. We were wearing waterproofs and boots and hats - in August, but once we were out there, you could feel the freshest air in your lungs, there was the music of the Atlantic, skin tingling with the salty spray, there were cheerful hellos from the other weather warriors, and on our way back, we visited the The Salty Fox Cafe (Tullan Strand) where we got lip-smacking home-made carrot cake and hot coffee, served by happy friendly people who love their jobs. That's our 50 ideas done, and we can't love this place any more, time for you too to #lovedonegal! Enjoy.
